Badami: Caves and Temples

The view over Agastya lake – a huge tank of green water – was spectacular, with ruined fortifications and Chalukya-era (6th – 8th centuries CE) temples crowning the North Fort outcrop opposite. Wide ghats (steps) for washing led down to the water. We walked back down to them and around the tank to the other side, and after buying some chips from a tiny hole-in-the-wall stall, went to the small Archaeological Museum to look at some pieces of sculpture nabbed from temples in the area.

Behind this, steps led up to the top of North Fort, through some spectacular natural canyons perfectly used as defensive structures, various gates, past some Chalukya temple ruins and granaries, and eventually to the summit and the ruins of a 7th century temple. This temple’s roof was home to a large group of squatting monkeys. Carol has been telling me of her fear of monkeys but I was surprised to see her be very careful to keep quite a distance from them!

It was very hot, but thankfully there was a breeze, and several shady spots during the ascent. Very few people about, and no other non-Indian tourists (which is how we like it).

Back down at the Museum, we continued on around the tank, past women knee-deep in the water and beating clothes against the stone steps, to the Bhutanatha group of temples on the eastern side of the lake. This spot was the subject of iconic views of Badami in photographs we’d seen online, so it was strange to be finally sitting there. While we snacked on our chips Carol pointed out a money running along the ghat steps some distance away, warning me that it was coming to get our food. It couldn’t possibly see that from that distance, I said. But it was! It suddenly appeared next to us and Carol jumped out of her skin! I shooshed it away; but we learned a lesson about the incredible eyesight of hungry monkeys!

Back towards town and through the interesting side streets to the very busy main road, we walked for a while amidst the chaos, getting lots of curious looks, often having to move halfway onto the road when what passed for sidewalks disappeared. At a relatively modern supermarket we got some drinks and snacks. Then we walked back to the hotel, stopping twice on the way so I could buy cheap sunglasses (the older pair had broken, and I preferred the second pair I found on this occasion) from very friendly, smiling stallholders.

We were very hot and tired when we got back to our room – which may be dirty and rundown but is at least air-conditioned – and very happy about the day’s expedition.

We had quite a lot of time to kill, but after going out to find an ATM, I was reminded why it’s pointless to expect to do much in the afternoons. It was HOT! It felt like about 38ºC/100ºF to me, and with the noise, pollution, smells and crowds it quickly became very uncomfortable. When I found a group of ATMs they weren’t dispensing cash. In the bank, a guard with an assault rifle slung over his back directed me to the bank manager, who ignored the couple sitting in front of his desk to tell me they’d be refilled in an hour. When I returned an hour later, the bank was closed and the ATMs hadn’t been refilled. 

Thankfully our hotel caretaker directed me to the only other ATM in a wide radius (and not listed on Google Maps, so I wouldn’t have found it), and I finally got enough cash to pay him, and a driver, tomorrow. India is no longer cheap, that’s for sure. This rundown place is NZD$170 for two nights. On my last trip I would have paid about NZD$20 a night for a place like this.

After all this Carol and I killed some time by listening to podcasts and playing a card game I’d brought with me called Archaeology. At 7.30pm we got a very plain but satisfying meal of dhal, yogurt, roti and rice for dinner, cooked by the hotel caretaker. After dinner he introduced me to our driver, who will take us to Hampi via Pattadakal and Aihole for 5200 R.

Well, despite the rough start, the noisy room and the poor sleep, Badami’s attractions have impressed.